Rising food prices, environmental anxiety and now the shocking statistics about Britain's domestic food waste - £10 billion a year and rising - have touched a public nerve. Gone, we are told, is the era of cheap food and a new era of thrift is upon us.

It's odd that as a nation we have broadly lost the knack for using up food wisely, because most of our continental neighbours, not to mention traditions in the Middle East and Asia, do persist in using up leftover food or languishing fruit and vegetables with imagination and without embarrassment, stretching groceries out over two, three or even four meals.